Of Cities and Mountains (Part 3): Dmanisi, Georgia

Reed has been participating in research at Dmanisi going on four years now. I wanted to see the place I have heard so much about. 

View of the region from the site of Dmanisi with plateaus and river valleys.

Unfortunately, Reed’s friend who usually drives was not available, so we had only one option: the bus. I have been on such buses in Turkey; this was a new experience for Reed though. Considering the last of the open seats were in the back row and that our heads were almost touching the ceiling, it was not too bad.

The road leading up to the dig house snakes through the town and Reed gave me a tour as we walked along. At the dig house, I was finally about to put faces to so many of the names I have heard about and enjoyed meeting everyone. The remainder of the evening was spent drinking around a hookah (I forgot the Georgian word for water pipe).

The remains of the Medieval fortress from the inside.

The next morning, I rode in the back of the truck with the excavators to complete my rite of passage. Luckily, since we were just visiting for the day, we did not have to get dirty and excavate; instead, I had the full tour compliments of my experienced tour guide of a boyfriend. The site rests on top of a large plateau which used to be next to a lake. The view from the edge is spectacular! I saw all of the different areas of the excavations that I had previously only known by name. It is incredible to see Medieval ruins and excavations just above early Paleolithic finds (apparently nearly everything in between has been washed away over the past million years or so).

Part of the old church. 

I did not snap any photos of the excavation (and to the untrained eye, you would not see much other than dirt – some things were even tricky for me to spot and the camera does not help matters). The Medieval fortress, however, had some nice ruins and a charming church nearby which had elaborate carvings in wood and stone dating between the 12^th and 14^th century. Medieval Dmanisi is particularly interesting because it was part of a major crossroads along the Silk Road, and there exists evidence for Christians, Muslims, and others who all lived in this area at one time or another.

A Muslim burial from the Medieval Period. 

After our exploration around the site, we had a quick lunch, and then went to a special swimming spot down in the valley. The water was cool at first, but was not too bad after moving around a bit and it felt great on such a hot day. There were abundant wildflowers and wild herbs filling the air with a sweet fragrance. One fatality occurred while I was fording the river on my way back to the site: goodbye, dear red flip flops…you were cheap, but you served me well. It was a really perfect and beautiful day.

Hand-carved wooden doors of the church.

 The next morning we hopped a bus back to Tbilisi. Unfortunately, it was not the same type of bus we took out to the site and it ended up adding another hour or so to our drive because it stopped at nearly every corner of all of the surrounding villages. We were quite relieved and grateful though because there was a sign inside that we were trying to read which made it seem as though we’d be on the bus for five hours; we were thankful for the mere three hours instead.

Thus concludes my adventures in Georgia. It was nine days well spent and it was wonderful getting to know a new country and a new people that are so warm to Reed’s heart.

Reed has just started up his blog again and you can read about his experiences at Adventures inGeorgia: The Search for the Persian Leopard. 

Carving of a ram from the Medieval Period.

Of Cities and Mountains (Part 1): Tbilisi, Georgia

Some of Tbilisi's modern architecture mixed with the old.

The Republic of Georgia has been keeping me busy. After the change in my flights, I ended up arriving, picking up my bags, and getting back to the apartment with Reed around 3:30AM. After three nights of a combined 12 hours of sleep, my body made me sleep...for about 10 hours. 

After finally getting up and out of the apartment, Reed showed me the museum area where he works each summer and where the bones from the excavations are stored, and yes, it is as hot as he says it is. Wow. I had my first authentic Georgian meal just around the corner which consisted of the standard cucumber, tomato, cilantro, and hot pepper salad; Khachapuri (a dough stuffed with cheese); and meat, potatoes, and peppers cooked in a cast iron dish. It was all delicious! Reed took me over to Old Tbilisi for a while to see some of the older and charming areas which are also within view of the highly modern architectural style which is popular in Tbilisi today. Then we headed home to sleep more. 

House from the Museum of Ethnography.

The next few days were full of different activities and sites all across the city. We visited the Museum of Georgia, which has a fantastic display of gold and silver objects dating from the late Neolithic/Early Bronze Age to the Roman Period -- Georgia is the land of the Golden Fleece from Greek mythology! The Museum of Soviet Occupation is housed in the same building and describes 70 years worth of fighting, oppression, and the road to independence in Georgia. 

Another house with a view of Tbilisi.

My favorite museum was the Open Air Museum of Ethnography located on one of the hills surrounding the city. The park extends further up the hill and is full of houses collected and brought to the park from all over Georgia. The houses demonstrate a variety of building traditions (wood, wood and stone, and stone) and their placement on different levels of the hill correlate with where they would be found in their original region (i.e. valleys for some, high mountainous points for others). Many of the houses in the lower areas are open and have many of the original furnishing as well as interpreters who describe (in Georgian, Russian, or English) the history of the house, the use of the objects within it, and the social hierarchy and roles of the family. Some of the houses are in rough shape, but in general, it is interesting to walk around the park to see the diversity of architecture all found within a single country. 

Fortress and a tree of wishes!

One afternoon (trying to avoid some of the heat) we took the gondola up to one of the surrounding hills for a view of the city from Narikala Fortress. Within the fortress is a small Georgian Orthodox Church full of brightly colored murals of various saints highlighted with gold leaf (Reed got kicked out for wearing shorts and I had to cover my hair while in the church -- nothing wrong with a little propriety in a sacred place). A short distance from the fortress was the colossal statue of Kartlis Deda, or Mother Georgia, who holds a cup of wine to greet those coming to Georgia as friends and a sword to keep away enemies. The National Botanical Gardens are located just behind the fortress. While the gardens are not the well organized and well maintained types found in western Europe with abundant signs, they are a nice place to escape the heat and to soak in some nature in the city. Vake Park, located just down the street from Reed's apartment, is another nice place to escape the heat and has several impressive monuments and memorials within it. 

Inside the fortress. I did not climb up those stairs -- yikes!

Eating has also been a bit of a pastime. I have heard from Reed for the past three years how great this-and-this is or how much he likes that yummy thing. Well, as a person who loves to try new foods, this was a priority. Many of the restaurants we visited are actually in basements or cellars making them a cool reprieve from the summer heat. I already mentioned the traditional salad and Khachapuri, which you find everywhere. Meat in general is pretty popular and cooked in a variety of ways. Last night I tried Khinkali, aka Georgian dumplings, which can be filled with a variety of meat with greens, potatoes, or cheese. They look like little money pouches you see in Medieval movies except sealed shut creating a little knob. These must be eaten with your hands and there is definitely some technique involved. The meat ones, and the best kind, create their own broth as they cook. To eat these, you must bite a hole in the site of the dumpling and slurp the juice out, then you may continue to eat the meat and dough, but never the knob (apparently since its just a big wad of dough people don't like it and the knobs can also be used to see how many you have eaten). Well, they are delicious...and filling; I had seven and felt like I could be rolled home. Another well known dish which I get to try tonight is Shashlik, or meat on a stick. 

Reed and I. The tower is not leaning, its my camera.

Lemonade is rather popular and is super refreshing in the heat (have I mentioned its been in the 90s since I arrived??? -- major change from the 70s we were having in Minneapolis when I left...). While it is called "limonade," it isn't really lemonade in the American sense, rather, it is carbonated water with a bit of sugar and specified flavoring added to it (e.g. lemon limonade, peach limonade, or the most disgusting, tarragon limonade). I will miss lemon limonade when I leave...

I am glad I decided to do this in several parts. This is only a fraction of what I have to say, but I think this is enough for today! Stay tuned for my trips to Shatili and Dmanisi!  

Ello, ello!

I have not been updating because frankly I am exhausted! It is the beginning of the "bad part" of the semester and it is going to be pretty crazy. I will try to share a few things though...

My classes are fine. I am working my ass off in my artifact course. I was up twice this week til 3:30AM and haven't gone to sleep before 12:30 for the others. Its pretty time consuming, but seems to be going well. I got over my own insecurities and trusted my judgment enough to name/label my bone tools that I am responsible for based on my own opinions and reasoning. It may sound like a ridiculous fear, but everyone in archaeology has an opinion and I had to really think about why I was making the decisions I was. I had to consider whether this would make sense to others and if it was logical. My assessment was going against previous work done on this topic and I feared I may receive strong criticisms for it. The work we are doing on these artifacts will be published eventually, so I want it to be thorough and good.

I have a wonderful bunch of students this year. I've received several compliments from a few recently telling me that I'm doing a great job as a TA, that my enthusiasm has not gone unnoticed, and that they appreciate the extra effort I'm putting in making sure they are doing well and that I care. It has really lifted my spirits and confidence. I tried really hard with my kids last semester, but most were so bitter toward the course that they didn't care how hard I tried/cared. I honestly do want to see them do well and I'm glad when they do. These kids are also doing much better in the course which also works well for me because I can start using up my vintage sticker collection. Haha! I tell them to look at the copyright dates on some of the stickers and they laugh because they are definitely from the late 1980s or early 1990s. I knew I didn't use them for a reason! :)

Let's see, what else, what else... We have spring break next week which I cannot wait for! Mom and Greg are coming for a visit so I will finally see some of the cities, haha! I will be sure to update about what we did/saw/went. I also have a lot of work to do, so it wont be all fun and games.

My undergraduate professor, Mark, that I went to Turkey with has a new series on the History Channel. The show is called Battles BC and airs Monday nights 9PM E, 8 PM C. It started this week. It was fun to see Mark on TV again (he previously was on the show Bible Battles). The new one is neat because it is filmed in the style of movies like 300 or Sin City. The budget is obviously significantly less, so the quality isn't as good, but it is still fun.

Mea is well. She has started sleeping on my side of the bed now (her big monthly move of the favorite spot). She is stubborn as stubborn can be though. I got into bed last night and kept nudging her out of the way and ended up with my feet under her. She couldn't have been comfortable, but she didn't move... Are children like this??? If so...ugh.

Anywho... I'll leave all you Michiganders with an interesting link. It is a photo-story from Time magazine called Detroit's Beautiful, Horrible Decline. It was pretty incredible to see these photos. I've always thought Detroit was an absolute shithole, but it really was something back in the day. I didn't even know half of these buildings existed. It is sad to see their current state because many are lovely, but broken and dirty now. Another strange experience I had looking at these was the feeling that I was at an archaeological site. Quite similar actually because the only things present are the structures and trash, no people or signs of life. Very eerie and apocalyptic.

Alright, on that cheery note, off to do work (hopefully).

What Would Charles Darwin Think?

Hello, hello! Happy Valentine's Day all! It has been an eventful week in history! Some of you may know that it was Abe Lincoln's birthday on Thursday, but it was Charles Darwin's 200th Birthday as well!

Since the first month of 1001 (the Human Evolution course I TA for) covers nothing but evolution and natural selection, compliments of Darwin, I figured it was only appropriate to throw him a birthday party :) Linda and I teamed up to throw an across-the-hall party Thursday evening chalk-full of Darwinian fun. We named each of our apartments after an island in the Galapagos where Darwin visited (I was Daphne Major and she was Genovesa). Our food was all themed around the Galapagos or Darwin as well, including: fruit, nuts, seeds of various sizes (tied to how Darwin figured out natural selection), a birthday cake with a Darwin fish on it, and seaweed salad, which was quite good I assure you. We also had Darwin-themed games such as "Pin the Beak on Darwin's Finch" and "Darwinian Pictionary." (Click the link to see the results of the game and the cake!) It was all quite clever and dorky overall, but it was a really great time :)

In general, that was the highlight of my week. Pretty uneventful other than the party, but good overall! Here is a link so you can have some Darwinian fun yourself! DEVOLVE YOURSELF!

Great Story! and some other stuff...

Some of you may know about the amazing 'Stumble Upon' feature that the Firefox web browser has. I am quite addicted. I was 'stumbling' today and came across this article someone else posted in their blog. It is a great story! I was disappointed that I had never heard of it before today.

Story

and for more information, they also have the official website.

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Not much new to report in Minneapolis today. The past few days have been spent doing small things around the apartment: cleaning, re-potting herbs (I had a really bad gnat infestation that I couldn't shake for the world!), laundry, etc. I applied for my new drivers license and also got my student ID and bus pass for the U, as every local calls the U of MN.

A few days ago I made homemade fruit leather which turned out really well! Fruit leather, for those of you unfamiliar with it, is basically pureed fruit that has been slowly dried either outside or in the oven at a low temperature. It is like a Fruit Roll-Up (a favorite lunchtime snack from my childhood), but all natural and without any extra sugar. I made blueberry...mmm! I'll attach the link I followed so you can give it a shot yourself. It really was the easiest thing I've ever made! I also made homemade granola, but I didn't follow a recipe and it needs a bit of tweaking. I'll post it when I finally come up with a good recipe.

The weather is a little cooler today than it has been (sad when 80 degrees is cooler!). Mea Kitty and I enjoyed some time outside as I brushed her. Other than that, not much new to report other than I start grad school in less than two weeks! Yahoo! I'm getting excited!