Bastille Day and Beautiful Bèze

As usual, things have been pretty busy with the excavation and all, and I have yet to say anything about France!

The flights were good, and the rendezvous point with my student even worked out (I brought another American student to the excavation with me this year – it’s nice having another one of us around)! We took the train down to Montbard where one of my excavation friends picked us up; it’s always nice to see a friendly face upon arrival!

The past few years I have been in Dijon for Bastille Day (it is like the American Fourth of July), and this was my first time experiencing the holiday in Châtillon. I could not have asked for a better introduction to France for my student. There were crowds of people of all ages that evening, many holding brightly-colored paper lanterns. There was a procession of people around the city holding open torches (very Frankenstein-esque) accompanied by music, and they stopped at the football/soccer field where the mayor gave some speeches. Upon completion, new music began as did the fireworks. We had a front row view of it all and the show lasted for about twenty minutes or so. The fireworks were really impressive for a place I consider to be a small town, and I laughed at how French they were – really coordinated and artistic explosions, the music, setting a proper mood… I commented to one of my other friends that in America, we do not care if it is artistic; we just like to see shiny things blowing up.

We had our first week of work, then the weekend. I suggested to some friends we could visit Mireabeau-sur-Beze, because it had a really interesting late La Tene – early Roman period sanctuary that I had read about and it was listed in one of the local travel journals. Well, the site now sits under a collection of houses (it was a rescue excavation), and there was no museum, just a display of objects housed in the tourism office. Bust.

No photos of the cave, but the water exits.

Luckily, we had another plan, and that was to visit 

Bèze,a village we passed on our way to Mireabeau. This was a really beautiful medieval town with some really charming old architecture. It also boasted Grottes de Bèze, a fantastic cave you could tour, which we did. I always like cave tours, but this one was particularly unique because within the cave is a source or spring where water bubbles up as it travels out to the river nearby. For this reason, part of the tour is walking on foot, but the other part is in a non-motorized boat to limit pollution. The guides pull the boat along by grabbing ropes which are anchored into the cave ceiling. The water inside was beautiful and crystal clear. I was really surprised that no prehistoric activity took place here because it was rather magical (there is a lot of cave art from the Paleolithic period found in many of the caves in France).

After the tour, we walked around for a while just enjoying the beautiful architecture and had some ice cream and a coffee next to city hall. We found another beautiful spot with a family of swans floating around in the little pond. Sometimes certain parts of France just seem too perfect and charming to be real. 

Baby swan stretching his wings.

The excavations are going well. Last week there was an article about our excavations in the Dijon paper. The best part is there was a photo of my student hard at work, and I was mentioned by name for my dissertation research. And the best of the best part was I went to buy a copy for me and my student, and the guy at the shop realized I was one of the excavators (we are really dirty most of the time). He asked if I was one of the Germans, and after he learned I was American, he got so excited because he knew I was mentioned in the article; he even told some of the other people on the excavations later how exciting it was to have an American there! Local celebrity? Not quite, but I felt pretty awesome regardless. Time to rest up for week number three! 

Of Cities and Mountains (Part 3): Dmanisi, Georgia

Reed has been participating in research at Dmanisi going on four years now. I wanted to see the place I have heard so much about. 

View of the region from the site of Dmanisi with plateaus and river valleys.

Unfortunately, Reed’s friend who usually drives was not available, so we had only one option: the bus. I have been on such buses in Turkey; this was a new experience for Reed though. Considering the last of the open seats were in the back row and that our heads were almost touching the ceiling, it was not too bad.

The road leading up to the dig house snakes through the town and Reed gave me a tour as we walked along. At the dig house, I was finally about to put faces to so many of the names I have heard about and enjoyed meeting everyone. The remainder of the evening was spent drinking around a hookah (I forgot the Georgian word for water pipe).

The remains of the Medieval fortress from the inside.

The next morning, I rode in the back of the truck with the excavators to complete my rite of passage. Luckily, since we were just visiting for the day, we did not have to get dirty and excavate; instead, I had the full tour compliments of my experienced tour guide of a boyfriend. The site rests on top of a large plateau which used to be next to a lake. The view from the edge is spectacular! I saw all of the different areas of the excavations that I had previously only known by name. It is incredible to see Medieval ruins and excavations just above early Paleolithic finds (apparently nearly everything in between has been washed away over the past million years or so).

Part of the old church. 

I did not snap any photos of the excavation (and to the untrained eye, you would not see much other than dirt – some things were even tricky for me to spot and the camera does not help matters). The Medieval fortress, however, had some nice ruins and a charming church nearby which had elaborate carvings in wood and stone dating between the 12^th and 14^th century. Medieval Dmanisi is particularly interesting because it was part of a major crossroads along the Silk Road, and there exists evidence for Christians, Muslims, and others who all lived in this area at one time or another.

A Muslim burial from the Medieval Period. 

After our exploration around the site, we had a quick lunch, and then went to a special swimming spot down in the valley. The water was cool at first, but was not too bad after moving around a bit and it felt great on such a hot day. There were abundant wildflowers and wild herbs filling the air with a sweet fragrance. One fatality occurred while I was fording the river on my way back to the site: goodbye, dear red flip flops…you were cheap, but you served me well. It was a really perfect and beautiful day.

Hand-carved wooden doors of the church.

 The next morning we hopped a bus back to Tbilisi. Unfortunately, it was not the same type of bus we took out to the site and it ended up adding another hour or so to our drive because it stopped at nearly every corner of all of the surrounding villages. We were quite relieved and grateful though because there was a sign inside that we were trying to read which made it seem as though we’d be on the bus for five hours; we were thankful for the mere three hours instead.

Thus concludes my adventures in Georgia. It was nine days well spent and it was wonderful getting to know a new country and a new people that are so warm to Reed’s heart.

Reed has just started up his blog again and you can read about his experiences at Adventures inGeorgia: The Search for the Persian Leopard. 

Carving of a ram from the Medieval Period.

Of Cities and Mountains (Part 2): Shatili, Georgia

On our trip to Shatili (and around Tbilisi) I learned a lot about driving in Georgia. For example:

·         Two lanes equal enough space for three cars;

·         A leapfrogging method is used for passing cars that are backed up, but this does not appear to be very effective because the car you passed will inevitably pass you after two minutes;

·         Honking should also be used as much as possible and at seemingly random moments;

·         Honking means more than “watch out”, such as “get out of my way”, “you are too slow”, “I am going to pass you so do not turn”, “Hey, Friend!”, and so on;

·         Seatbelts are optional, unless you are in the front seat;

·         And cars do not break for pedestrians, but will break for cows.

I found it better to just not watch. This was actually beneficial because I could focus on the beautiful landscape during our journey. Our destination was the village of Shatili on the recommendation of Reed’s friend/driver and his wife. They said “It is a very special and beautiful place, trust us!” And since we trust them, we agreed to go.

The village is located in Upper Khevsureti, one of the mountainous regions of Georgia. While it was only about 75km/50miles away, the drive took about four hours partly because of the slow climb and curving roads of a mountain, but also because of the road itself which was mostly unpaved, narrow, and rather treacherous at times (this made the Road to Hana in Hawaii look easy).

 The first major feature we passed was a giant reservoir for one of the rivers (sorry, no photos -- I was trying to ignore the fact that we were driving right on the edge of a cliff). It reminded me a bit of Scotland because it looks like the hills just rise up out of the water. The area was flooded in the not-too-distant-past covering a small town. Apparently when the water levels are a bit low, the top of the local church begins to appear. Not today though, there was plenty of water and it was beautiful!

"I gotta go, we got cows!"

Most of the journey was a typical mountainous ascent: switch backs, narrow curves, pulling over for other cars to use the road, changes in vegetation. Reed and I observed that unlike the Rocky Mountains, these hills have vegetation growing all the way to the top. There are plants that thrive on every level, which make the mountains really beautiful. There are also a huge variety of beautiful, colorful wildflowers which grow all the way up, as well as wild herbs, and a plant that looks like giant rhubarb.

Shatili

After about four hours of passing through the hills, seeing an occasional house (some of which appeared to be abandoned), and breaking for many cows, we arrived at our destination. Unlike the lower habitations and many of the other regions of Georgia which have traditionally used wood for constructing their homes, Shatili used dry-stone construction with just a bit of mortar in some places. This may not seem very impressive at first glance, but then when you learn this collection of houses date to the 12^th century and have been nearly continuously occupied since…it is incredible. Along the journey we saw many other stand-alone houses built like this. There were also many towers that sort of appeared across the landscape too, which were erected for signaling in case of invading armies (think Lord of the Rings when they light the fires in the towers which are seen by another tower who lights a fire in theirs quickly, and so on).

Stone signaling tower from the nearby area. 

Reed exploring Shatili. 

A cow enjoying the shade inside.

We had some lunch next to the river flowing nearby, walked around for a while, and then made the four hour trip home again. The scenery was lovely, the village incredible. It was a worthwhile trip, just leave the driving up to the Georgians. 

Of Cities and Mountains (Part 1): Tbilisi, Georgia

Some of Tbilisi's modern architecture mixed with the old.

The Republic of Georgia has been keeping me busy. After the change in my flights, I ended up arriving, picking up my bags, and getting back to the apartment with Reed around 3:30AM. After three nights of a combined 12 hours of sleep, my body made me sleep...for about 10 hours. 

After finally getting up and out of the apartment, Reed showed me the museum area where he works each summer and where the bones from the excavations are stored, and yes, it is as hot as he says it is. Wow. I had my first authentic Georgian meal just around the corner which consisted of the standard cucumber, tomato, cilantro, and hot pepper salad; Khachapuri (a dough stuffed with cheese); and meat, potatoes, and peppers cooked in a cast iron dish. It was all delicious! Reed took me over to Old Tbilisi for a while to see some of the older and charming areas which are also within view of the highly modern architectural style which is popular in Tbilisi today. Then we headed home to sleep more. 

House from the Museum of Ethnography.

The next few days were full of different activities and sites all across the city. We visited the Museum of Georgia, which has a fantastic display of gold and silver objects dating from the late Neolithic/Early Bronze Age to the Roman Period -- Georgia is the land of the Golden Fleece from Greek mythology! The Museum of Soviet Occupation is housed in the same building and describes 70 years worth of fighting, oppression, and the road to independence in Georgia. 

Another house with a view of Tbilisi.

My favorite museum was the Open Air Museum of Ethnography located on one of the hills surrounding the city. The park extends further up the hill and is full of houses collected and brought to the park from all over Georgia. The houses demonstrate a variety of building traditions (wood, wood and stone, and stone) and their placement on different levels of the hill correlate with where they would be found in their original region (i.e. valleys for some, high mountainous points for others). Many of the houses in the lower areas are open and have many of the original furnishing as well as interpreters who describe (in Georgian, Russian, or English) the history of the house, the use of the objects within it, and the social hierarchy and roles of the family. Some of the houses are in rough shape, but in general, it is interesting to walk around the park to see the diversity of architecture all found within a single country. 

Fortress and a tree of wishes!

One afternoon (trying to avoid some of the heat) we took the gondola up to one of the surrounding hills for a view of the city from Narikala Fortress. Within the fortress is a small Georgian Orthodox Church full of brightly colored murals of various saints highlighted with gold leaf (Reed got kicked out for wearing shorts and I had to cover my hair while in the church -- nothing wrong with a little propriety in a sacred place). A short distance from the fortress was the colossal statue of Kartlis Deda, or Mother Georgia, who holds a cup of wine to greet those coming to Georgia as friends and a sword to keep away enemies. The National Botanical Gardens are located just behind the fortress. While the gardens are not the well organized and well maintained types found in western Europe with abundant signs, they are a nice place to escape the heat and to soak in some nature in the city. Vake Park, located just down the street from Reed's apartment, is another nice place to escape the heat and has several impressive monuments and memorials within it. 

Inside the fortress. I did not climb up those stairs -- yikes!

Eating has also been a bit of a pastime. I have heard from Reed for the past three years how great this-and-this is or how much he likes that yummy thing. Well, as a person who loves to try new foods, this was a priority. Many of the restaurants we visited are actually in basements or cellars making them a cool reprieve from the summer heat. I already mentioned the traditional salad and Khachapuri, which you find everywhere. Meat in general is pretty popular and cooked in a variety of ways. Last night I tried Khinkali, aka Georgian dumplings, which can be filled with a variety of meat with greens, potatoes, or cheese. They look like little money pouches you see in Medieval movies except sealed shut creating a little knob. These must be eaten with your hands and there is definitely some technique involved. The meat ones, and the best kind, create their own broth as they cook. To eat these, you must bite a hole in the site of the dumpling and slurp the juice out, then you may continue to eat the meat and dough, but never the knob (apparently since its just a big wad of dough people don't like it and the knobs can also be used to see how many you have eaten). Well, they are delicious...and filling; I had seven and felt like I could be rolled home. Another well known dish which I get to try tonight is Shashlik, or meat on a stick. 

Reed and I. The tower is not leaning, its my camera.

Lemonade is rather popular and is super refreshing in the heat (have I mentioned its been in the 90s since I arrived??? -- major change from the 70s we were having in Minneapolis when I left...). While it is called "limonade," it isn't really lemonade in the American sense, rather, it is carbonated water with a bit of sugar and specified flavoring added to it (e.g. lemon limonade, peach limonade, or the most disgusting, tarragon limonade). I will miss lemon limonade when I leave...

I am glad I decided to do this in several parts. This is only a fraction of what I have to say, but I think this is enough for today! Stay tuned for my trips to Shatili and Dmanisi!  

When the Airlines Hand You Lemons, Make Limoncello: How to Spend a Twelve Hour Layover in Rome

I am rather confident that someone has put a traveling curse on me. My most recent adventure involving trains helped to strengthen the idea in my mind, but events on Monday confirmed it for me.

Sometimes I take a bus to Chicago because I can get a cheaper, or more preferable flight combination from there; in this case, I had a short, 16 hour flight to the Republic of Georgia going from Chicago to Amsterdam, then Amsterdam to Tbilisi. On Monday, about an hour before leaving for the bus, I received a phone call from KLM telling me my second flight was cancelled and they were re-routing me to Istanbul before going on to Tbilisi. Nothing like adding to my travel anxiety! I was annoyed, but knew I could manage. I made it to Chicago, had dinner and stayed with a friend from college, which was great! I even slept well!

In the morning, I thought, "Maybe I should call the airline and see if they can do something better or at least compensate me for adding 10 additional hours of travel to my trip..." Good thing I did because when I called  there was no record that my second flight had ever been confirmed; in other words, I had NO flight to Tbilisi scheduled! After 1.5 hours on the phone trying to find a flight for me (everything was booked until next week!), we finally found something that did not involve 4+ connecting flights. I was now scheduled to fly from Chicago to New York, then to Rome where I would have a 12 hour layover, and then on to Tbilisi.

Rome and I have a history. She was the first city I ever visited abroad in addition to being the first place I ever visited alone. I love Rome! And as a person who studies the Romans, it is even more fantastic for the archaeology in the city. While one day is too short for proper visit to Rome, 12 hours is ok for getting out of the airport and enjoying some of what the city has to offer.

My bags were checked through to Tbilisi, and I luckily did not have to worry about bringing them with me. I also had the good fortune of knowing a colleague in Rome who had some free time to visit with me. For 14 euros one way, or 28 euros round-trip, there is a train that goes from Fiumicino Airport to Termini Station, central train station for Roma. The train is much faster than the bus, and cheaper than a taxi, which runs about 50 euros. The train normally takes about 40 minutes, but was delayed while en route adding an additional 30 minutes to my trip into the city.

I finally arrived, met my colleague, and tackled my first priority: delicious coffee! I sometimes forget how mediocre coffee is everywhere else I have been compared to coffee in Italy. Even their not-so-great coffee is better than some of our best coffee. Heaven in a little tiny cup!

Second priority for the day: eat something delicious for lunch. It sounds cliche, but you can really not go wrong with pizza or pasta in Rome. I went with the former as it was slightly lighter. We went to a place that sold it by the gram, so you could chose exactly the best size piece, or pieces, or you! Of the three flavors I tried, the best had zucchini flowers and anchovies on top. Yes, anchovies. It is a love I have had since childhood when my father convinced me to try them, and I will not apologize for it!

Incredibly detailed floral decoration in stone. 

Rome is full of history, arts, and so on. My third priority then: to soak in some culture! I had visited many of the important museums and archaeological sites on my previous visits in 2005 and 2008, but one elusive attraction that I have been wanting to see is the Ara Pacis, the Altar of Peace constructed by the Emperor Augustus after the second Roman civil war in which he came out the victor. It had closed the year before my first visit to Rome and opened a few months after my second visit. I was determined that I should see it this time around! Entry was about 8,50 euros since I forgot my student card, but as it was my only expense for the day, I did not mind the cost so much. It was beautiful and exciting to see something I had studied in school!

The Ara Pacis from the front. Note the person on the left for scale. 

A complex scene loaded with symbols pointing to fertility and well-being. 

At this point in the day it was getting rather warm, leading me to my fourth priority while in Rome: gelato! We went to Giolitti, a famous gelaterie with a lot of character and totally charming inside. Fair warning, if you go, it is really busy with tourists in the summer and you have to just push your way to the front -- do not wait in a line, you will never be served :) And with a delicious and refreshing gelato in hand, we just strolled around Rome passing by the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and other sites that did not really require a visit. I had another coffee before heading back to Termini for my airport-bound train. Luckily my train was not delayed, and I made it through security and to my gate in less than 40 minutes.

This would be a rather easy trip to do for anyone with a long layover in Rome. Remember to grab a free map from the information desk at the airport, then factor in an hour for getting off the plane and through passport control, an hour for the train, about six to seven hours for your visit, an hour to get back, and two hours for getting through the airport. If you have less time, you can always shorten your visit. I really took my time in the city. You could always factor in more sites too, but when you have a short amount of time, it is best to not put a million things into one day. I highly recommend having a coffee, enjoying some food, and getting some gelato. Take the city in. Walk slowly, wander; you will enjoy it more.

After my pleasant layover, I hopped another plane and arrived in Tbilisi early in the morning where I was greeted by Reed and some of his Georgian friends. My exploration of this new city and country has just begun and I will be sure to update my loyal readers on my adventures. In the meantime, you can read about Reed's experiences in Georgia from the past three years at Adventures in Georgia: The Search for the Persian Leopard.

My “Day” in Durham, England

As the weather in France today has taken a turn for the worse (I had several days of 70 degree weather and lots of sun, and now I am back to cold, rain, and clouds…), I thought it would be the perfect day to write about my trip to Durham, England. My last post discussed my trip to Edinburgh, but I neglected to say why I was there in the first place – I had to go there so I could get to my conference in Durham. The prices and routes for getting anywhere in Europe are still a mystery to me, and since I could easily rant about this for several blog posts, I will save my thoughts for such an occasion. The important thing to know is that Durham was my final destination for another academic conference.

This conference was a bit different than the one I attended in Luxembourg because the subject was “Material Religion” (the material side of religion, including objects used in rituals, representations of religious subjects, the body’s role in rituals, etc.), and my audience included sociologists, anthropologists, art historians, theologians, geographers…I am sure some other disciplines too! To my knowledge, I was the only archaeologist attending, but since I used many modern theories and approaches to understand my own material better, I actually felt quite at home here. I also was fortunate enough to present on the first day, and therefore, had little time to get nervous! I had positive feedback on my presentation, and one colleague told me later it was one of the most creative papers he’s ever seen and that I seemed right at home speaking in front of others (thank you, high school theatre and other various forms of public speaking I endured throughout my pre-college education)! Overall, it was an interesting conference, and I enjoyed listening to papers on different or new topics, and getting to know people from other disciplines.

Thanks S. Schaefer for the photo!

Backtracking a bit, I arrived in Durham Monday afternoon via the train from Edinburgh. The conference lasted from Tuesday to Thursday and went nearly from sun-up to sun-down. Needless to say, I did not have much time to see anything in the city during the conference. I anticipated this and planned Friday as my extra day for sightseeing. I did see one awesome sight during the conference – this room looked quite similar to the Great Hall from the Harry Potter movies! We dined in it and even made sure I was on the Gryffindor side, just to be safe! Apparently other scenes from the films were shot throughout the castle.

The weather was beautiful during the conference, but rained/misted on Friday of course. I spent the day just sort of strolling about; walking was particularly nice after sitting in a conference for three days. 

This is a view of the River Wear from one of the many bridges in Durham. The river actually loops around the highest hill in the area almost creating a peninsula.

It actually looked a bit more like Fall, but the green is slowly coming back. Below is another one of the bridges in Durham, though much lower than the one from the photo above. The pyramid-looking thing in front of it had a niche on the other side; maybe it was for light/a small fire? 

I did manage to visit the Durham Cathedral, which has been voted Britain’s favorite building. The giant, awesome door-knocker is on one of the doors to the Cathedral. If someone sought sanctuary for a crime or any reason, they could knock on this door and were allowed to stay in the protection of the church for about a month. It’s really large and it has interesting columns inside which are all carved with unique geometric designs (no photos inside, sorry!). In the monk’s living area, there was also an impressive library with books in beautiful bookcases that lined the wall and a lovely collection of Anglo-Saxon carved stone art and crosses. It is possible to visit the tower of the cathedral, but I thought paying 5£ to walk up five flights of stairs was a bit much considering the exchange rate.

I was a bit disappointed that the Durham Castle was closed for a private event the day I wanted to see the rest of it. At least I had enough sense to snoop around a bit the night of the HP dinner! I took a few photos near the entrance anyway.

But the best thing I saw in Durham, were signs of life! Flowers! Yes, flowers. I skipped most of this year’s crappy Midwest winter, but it does not stop me from being excited to see these gems! Spring is just around the corner, friends! I promise you! 

Another view of the cathedral. 

The other side of the River Wear which surrounds the hill.

Edinburgh, Even Better the Second Time

I first traveled to Edinburgh in 2006 with my mother and step-father who met up with me after I finished an excavation. We spent several days in and around the city seeing the highlights, such as the gardens, the castle, and a trip to nearby Loch Lomond. With all of the major sights under my belt, I had some freedom to experience Edinburgh in a different way the second time around. Unfortunately, this trip was limited to a single day. I arrived from Paris at 8:30 AM, took the thirty minute bus ride into the city, and could not check into my hotel until 2:00 PM. I had time to kill and had no definitive plans. My train for Durham was leaving the next day at 3:30 PM. I had about 30 hours to spend in Edinburgh – how to make the most of it?

Serendipity was on my side this day and it proved to be one of my most lovely and enjoyable trips in all of my European experiences. Feeling rather defeated about not getting into my hotel and having a shower, I decided to walk around the city. I was staying in Old Town and was already near many of the important sights. I headed along the Royal Mile towards the famous castle on a hill in the center of the city. It was already busy with tourists and I was thankful I was not entering again as I already saw it in 2006. I did walk to the top though to take in the city at dawn/early morning, and as it was a clear day I could see all of the beautiful snow-topped hills surrounding the city.

Being long overdue for a coffee, I found a charming little café near Saint Giles Church, adequately named Saint Giles Café Bar. The staff was nurturing and attentive as they seemed to sense my fatigue. A latte and bacon and maple syrup-topped waffle later, I was feeling a bit more prepared to face the day. I strolled up and down the Royal Mile, and then descended into the more modern areas of the city. I wandered through an old cemetery at the bottom of the central hill before moving on to the Prince’s Gardens, which are, obviously, much more beautiful in the summer when the lush plants are in bloom. It is a good place to have a rest and to people watch for a while as well as taking in the castle from below. 

While walking along the main road, I could see in the distance several structures on the top of a hill that looked like ancient ruins, though no Romans, and certainly no Greeks built cities that far north. Climbing the hill to investigate brought me to a new area of the city I had not explored before. The various signs around the hill and replicas of ancient ruins explained their history and presence in the city. This hill, known as Calton Hill, has a partial, and I think accurately sized, replica of the Pantheon from Athens. This structure, along with its intellectual fame of the 18th century, gave Edinburgh the nickname of “the Athens of the North.”

I was a bit too beat to do anything else after that, though I passed yet another larger, older, and more interesting cemetery on my way back, I did not have the energy to explore further. I crossed the beautifully painted Waverly Bridge, and returned to my hotel for a much needed nap and shower. Feeling refreshed and hungry, I set out for dinner. It was only 5:30, and I decided it was much too early to eat, so I descended the hill yet again, and basically walked all around the castle from below again. I really worked up an appetite at this point!

At the café this morning I inquired if they could recommend a place with great haggis, a traditional Scottish dish made up of sheep parts, onions, and spices cooked inside of a sheep or goat’s stomach. I tried this in 2006, much to my mother’s disgust, and loved it. It is peppery and fully of rich flavor. They recommended a place called The Arcade Haggis and Whiskey House, a charming little hole in the wall I walked past several times that day and failed to see until I actively sought it out. It was quite small and inviting with very wonderful décor. I did not even bother to look at the menu and requested the haggis with the whiskey sauce (as I was instructed this morning). It was phenomenal! It was served stacked in a circular form with mashed potatoes as the base, mashed turnips in the middle, and the haggis on top with the whiskey sauce served all around it. I ate the entire thing. I wandered back to my hotel and flopped in bed to enjoy my incredible food coma.

The next morning I had a meeting planned with a professor in the early part of the day. After our meeting, I still had a few hours to kill before my train. I decided to find a vintage and antique clothing store I read about called W. Armstrong & Son. They had an incredible selection of old clothing from Victorian nightgowns, to 1970s maxi dresses, and a range of furs and various uniforms. There really were some fantastic pieces, though nothing I liked fit me unfortunately even after an hour of browsing their collections.

Just up the hill from Armstrong’s was a sort of screen-printing artist collective called TheRed Door Gallery. They had some really unique pieces and fun subjects that were definitely worth the look. Normally I am not much of a shopper, but after leaving this store I walked past another one that I just could not resist. The store, Ness, has all sorts of cute plaids in various happy color combinations. It was all so cheerful! Shockingly, I splurged and bought myself a bag, though it was probably the only thing in the store that had no plaid on it. Oh well.

So, if you just have a short time in Edinburgh, I highly recommend getting to a few of these major sights I have described (and also The Real Mary King’s Close – a sort of famous ghost tour that takes you to underground parts of the city. I did this in 2006 also and it was one of the most interesting and unusual tours I have ever been on!). I definitely recommend getting to The Arcade for some haggis. If haggis is not your thing, they have many other traditional Scottish dishes that are also worth trying, as well as at least six shelves of different whiskeys! 

“Yippie Yah Yei Schweinebacke!”

Ok, so I thought I’d be done posting about Germany, but I keep remembering so many good things I learned that need to be shared. I guess this discussion works for American movies brought to Europe in general.

I do not think I need to explain that many English films get dubbed when they go abroad (not all though, many just have subtitles). Well, since I typically do not understand the dubbing I just watch and laugh because it sounds funnier in another language, and in the case of a piece of crap film like Twilight, the French version was actually better because the actors/ACTRESS actually had some emotion in their voices (see note below on why I was watching Twilight).

Anyway, John the German and I were discussing the Die Hard films on day and he dropped this phrase on me: “Yippie Yah Yei Schweinebacke!” I asked him to repeat it and I said, “Ha! It rhymes!” He was confused because those phrases obviously do not rhyme, but then I explained the English version. I needed to know, “What does ‘Schweinebacke’ mean?” Turns out, this traditional German insult means “pig cheek.” This led to a good long laugh for me. I am not sure exactly why this translation tickled my fancy so much. Perhaps it was the good fortune that there is actually a phrase in German that mimics the sound of the English version,

or that the insult is strange, or that it just seems so innocent compared to the much more offensive English phrase. Oh! On a side note, there is a funny site called “Thumbs and Ammo” where they photo-shopped the guns out of scenes from action films and replaced them with a thumbs-up! Some are pretty hilarious and inspired me to make this gem combining the German phrase and one of their images.

Die Hard, rated G for all ages!

In addition to movies being dubbed, the titles are often changed. Sometimes it is a literal translation into the other language, or they are changed and added to. Brokeback Mountain, for example, becomes Le Secret de Brokeback Mountain. In other cases they keep the title in English, but change the phrase. I have not found a good explanation for why they do this exactly. It seems that the titles which receive this treatment might simply be difficult to translate or they do not have an equivalent word in that language. For example, Step Up became Sexy Dance and The Hangover became Very Bad Trip (it seems crazy the French do not have a word for ‘hangover,’ instead they say someone had ‘too much wine’).

Hopefully this was not overly boring for those of you who are not into films. As a movie lover, and I suppose as an anthropologist, I find it fascinating to see which aspects of films and movie culture are exported and modified to fit a different culture. The best part is, there is always something new to discover or learn about this because there are always new TV shows and films entering the movie world!

**Oh! And as for watching Twilight. This was two years ago, I believe, when I was staying with a friend in Dijon. She had to work for the day and I wanted to practice listening to French. I looked at her movie collection and thought, “Which of these is going to have a simple story line and basic dialogue which I may be able to understand…” Well, it proved to be that one! The funniest part was that after about an hour and a half of listening to and reading subtitles in the French, I became tired and switched back to English. I regretted it immediately. My god, the French made the film bearable because the actors actually had some feeling in their voices, but the original film…my god…how on earth were they allowed to make four of these movies?**

A Visit to Glauberg

Two weekends ago I had the opportunity to take a trip to a little village called Glauberg. The village today is quite small and really has nothing significant to it as far as I know, but the hill which lies behind was home to an oppidum (a fortified settlement, typically found on a hilltop or defensible location) during the Iron Age. In addition to the settlement, a large rampart and multiple burial mounds were found around the hill too.

To get to the site, The German (whom I will now call John as this is his new nickname from me) and I had to take a train to Frankfurt from Mainz, and then another train from Frankfurt to Glauberg. We were quite lucky with our first trains – one was nearly brand new and still had the fresh scent to it! It took about two hours to get out there and luckily the ride was pleasant and we even saw some deer!

We arrived in the little village which is located at the foot of the large hill. We started working our way through the village and followed a muddy path up the hill, parallel to some freshly turned fields waiting for new crops. It was a bit tricky getting up because, well, my studious bum has been planted in a chair for the past few months, so to say I am out of shape is an understatement to say the least, but also we have had so much rain and snow in Germany this spring that everything is a bit muddy and soft in general. We made it to the top nonetheless and had to spend about five minutes cleaning the mud off of our shoes before entering the museum.

Sometimes referred to as the Mickey Mouse statue

Visiting the museum first seemed to be the best option because the weather was questionable and it sprinkled a bit while we climbed the hill. The museum, opened in the late 2000s, was not very large, but it holds most of the finds recovered from the excavations, including the famous princely burial in one of the mounds. This find was rather famous in the world of European archaeology. Statues and sculptures are typically rare prior to the Roman Period, so to find this incredible, life-size sculpture associated with one of these wealthy burials was an exceptional find to say the least. It is believed that sculptures like these were found on top of the burial mounds and served as a form of grave marker.

In addition to the sculpture, many marvelous objects were found in the burial mound of the prince. These objects are also exceptional, well, the whole situation is exceptional, because the objects found in the grave are also found on the sculpture itself. This very close connection between the sculpture, the objects, and the burial, allow archaeologists to argue that the sculpture depicts the man found in the grave with these items. This is not something that happens very often in the world of European archaeology.

See? See? Too cool! A matching sword and a shield were also discovered.

I should also mention that these mounds are not simply small little bumps in the landscape that just cover the body. Some of these are several meters high, and tens of meters wide (the princess burial at Vix where I excavate is estimated to be at least forty meters wide!). This is the princely burial of Glauberg.

The sun decided to come out the moment I snapped this photo and I could not be more grateful! As the weather turned around, we decided it was a good time to see the archaeological park which had visible ruins from the Iron Age to the Medieval Period that have been excavated from the early 20^th century to the more recent times. The Iron Age ramparts were a highlight as well as many ruins of medieval houses and castle structures. It took about an hour or so to walk around the area, and while there may have been more to see, the sun seemed to want to retire for the night and I did not want to walk down the hill in the dark.

Nothing really remarkable happened on the way back, other than these two fat cats sitting in a window wanting to get in.

These fat cats make Mea look really thin...and less grouchy.

On the train ride from Frankfurt to Mainz I was blessed with the opportunity to listen to some German skaterpunk teens rap in English for a bit and then switch to raping about how awesome Frankfurt was in German. I use blessed sarcastically here. I survived and had a Schlappeseppel when I got back. Boy will I miss that beer.

Today was my last day in Mainz and I am actually finishing this post on the bus headed for Dijon. New country, new work, and new adventures await! Until we meet again, Germany!