Of Cities and Mountains (Part 1): Tbilisi, Georgia

Some of Tbilisi's modern architecture mixed with the old.

The Republic of Georgia has been keeping me busy. After the change in my flights, I ended up arriving, picking up my bags, and getting back to the apartment with Reed around 3:30AM. After three nights of a combined 12 hours of sleep, my body made me sleep...for about 10 hours. 

After finally getting up and out of the apartment, Reed showed me the museum area where he works each summer and where the bones from the excavations are stored, and yes, it is as hot as he says it is. Wow. I had my first authentic Georgian meal just around the corner which consisted of the standard cucumber, tomato, cilantro, and hot pepper salad; Khachapuri (a dough stuffed with cheese); and meat, potatoes, and peppers cooked in a cast iron dish. It was all delicious! Reed took me over to Old Tbilisi for a while to see some of the older and charming areas which are also within view of the highly modern architectural style which is popular in Tbilisi today. Then we headed home to sleep more. 

House from the Museum of Ethnography.

The next few days were full of different activities and sites all across the city. We visited the Museum of Georgia, which has a fantastic display of gold and silver objects dating from the late Neolithic/Early Bronze Age to the Roman Period -- Georgia is the land of the Golden Fleece from Greek mythology! The Museum of Soviet Occupation is housed in the same building and describes 70 years worth of fighting, oppression, and the road to independence in Georgia. 

Another house with a view of Tbilisi.

My favorite museum was the Open Air Museum of Ethnography located on one of the hills surrounding the city. The park extends further up the hill and is full of houses collected and brought to the park from all over Georgia. The houses demonstrate a variety of building traditions (wood, wood and stone, and stone) and their placement on different levels of the hill correlate with where they would be found in their original region (i.e. valleys for some, high mountainous points for others). Many of the houses in the lower areas are open and have many of the original furnishing as well as interpreters who describe (in Georgian, Russian, or English) the history of the house, the use of the objects within it, and the social hierarchy and roles of the family. Some of the houses are in rough shape, but in general, it is interesting to walk around the park to see the diversity of architecture all found within a single country. 

Fortress and a tree of wishes!

One afternoon (trying to avoid some of the heat) we took the gondola up to one of the surrounding hills for a view of the city from Narikala Fortress. Within the fortress is a small Georgian Orthodox Church full of brightly colored murals of various saints highlighted with gold leaf (Reed got kicked out for wearing shorts and I had to cover my hair while in the church -- nothing wrong with a little propriety in a sacred place). A short distance from the fortress was the colossal statue of Kartlis Deda, or Mother Georgia, who holds a cup of wine to greet those coming to Georgia as friends and a sword to keep away enemies. The National Botanical Gardens are located just behind the fortress. While the gardens are not the well organized and well maintained types found in western Europe with abundant signs, they are a nice place to escape the heat and to soak in some nature in the city. Vake Park, located just down the street from Reed's apartment, is another nice place to escape the heat and has several impressive monuments and memorials within it. 

Inside the fortress. I did not climb up those stairs -- yikes!

Eating has also been a bit of a pastime. I have heard from Reed for the past three years how great this-and-this is or how much he likes that yummy thing. Well, as a person who loves to try new foods, this was a priority. Many of the restaurants we visited are actually in basements or cellars making them a cool reprieve from the summer heat. I already mentioned the traditional salad and Khachapuri, which you find everywhere. Meat in general is pretty popular and cooked in a variety of ways. Last night I tried Khinkali, aka Georgian dumplings, which can be filled with a variety of meat with greens, potatoes, or cheese. They look like little money pouches you see in Medieval movies except sealed shut creating a little knob. These must be eaten with your hands and there is definitely some technique involved. The meat ones, and the best kind, create their own broth as they cook. To eat these, you must bite a hole in the site of the dumpling and slurp the juice out, then you may continue to eat the meat and dough, but never the knob (apparently since its just a big wad of dough people don't like it and the knobs can also be used to see how many you have eaten). Well, they are delicious...and filling; I had seven and felt like I could be rolled home. Another well known dish which I get to try tonight is Shashlik, or meat on a stick. 

Reed and I. The tower is not leaning, its my camera.

Lemonade is rather popular and is super refreshing in the heat (have I mentioned its been in the 90s since I arrived??? -- major change from the 70s we were having in Minneapolis when I left...). While it is called "limonade," it isn't really lemonade in the American sense, rather, it is carbonated water with a bit of sugar and specified flavoring added to it (e.g. lemon limonade, peach limonade, or the most disgusting, tarragon limonade). I will miss lemon limonade when I leave...

I am glad I decided to do this in several parts. This is only a fraction of what I have to say, but I think this is enough for today! Stay tuned for my trips to Shatili and Dmanisi!  

When the Airlines Hand You Lemons, Make Limoncello: How to Spend a Twelve Hour Layover in Rome

I am rather confident that someone has put a traveling curse on me. My most recent adventure involving trains helped to strengthen the idea in my mind, but events on Monday confirmed it for me.

Sometimes I take a bus to Chicago because I can get a cheaper, or more preferable flight combination from there; in this case, I had a short, 16 hour flight to the Republic of Georgia going from Chicago to Amsterdam, then Amsterdam to Tbilisi. On Monday, about an hour before leaving for the bus, I received a phone call from KLM telling me my second flight was cancelled and they were re-routing me to Istanbul before going on to Tbilisi. Nothing like adding to my travel anxiety! I was annoyed, but knew I could manage. I made it to Chicago, had dinner and stayed with a friend from college, which was great! I even slept well!

In the morning, I thought, "Maybe I should call the airline and see if they can do something better or at least compensate me for adding 10 additional hours of travel to my trip..." Good thing I did because when I called  there was no record that my second flight had ever been confirmed; in other words, I had NO flight to Tbilisi scheduled! After 1.5 hours on the phone trying to find a flight for me (everything was booked until next week!), we finally found something that did not involve 4+ connecting flights. I was now scheduled to fly from Chicago to New York, then to Rome where I would have a 12 hour layover, and then on to Tbilisi.

Rome and I have a history. She was the first city I ever visited abroad in addition to being the first place I ever visited alone. I love Rome! And as a person who studies the Romans, it is even more fantastic for the archaeology in the city. While one day is too short for proper visit to Rome, 12 hours is ok for getting out of the airport and enjoying some of what the city has to offer.

My bags were checked through to Tbilisi, and I luckily did not have to worry about bringing them with me. I also had the good fortune of knowing a colleague in Rome who had some free time to visit with me. For 14 euros one way, or 28 euros round-trip, there is a train that goes from Fiumicino Airport to Termini Station, central train station for Roma. The train is much faster than the bus, and cheaper than a taxi, which runs about 50 euros. The train normally takes about 40 minutes, but was delayed while en route adding an additional 30 minutes to my trip into the city.

I finally arrived, met my colleague, and tackled my first priority: delicious coffee! I sometimes forget how mediocre coffee is everywhere else I have been compared to coffee in Italy. Even their not-so-great coffee is better than some of our best coffee. Heaven in a little tiny cup!

Second priority for the day: eat something delicious for lunch. It sounds cliche, but you can really not go wrong with pizza or pasta in Rome. I went with the former as it was slightly lighter. We went to a place that sold it by the gram, so you could chose exactly the best size piece, or pieces, or you! Of the three flavors I tried, the best had zucchini flowers and anchovies on top. Yes, anchovies. It is a love I have had since childhood when my father convinced me to try them, and I will not apologize for it!

Incredibly detailed floral decoration in stone. 

Rome is full of history, arts, and so on. My third priority then: to soak in some culture! I had visited many of the important museums and archaeological sites on my previous visits in 2005 and 2008, but one elusive attraction that I have been wanting to see is the Ara Pacis, the Altar of Peace constructed by the Emperor Augustus after the second Roman civil war in which he came out the victor. It had closed the year before my first visit to Rome and opened a few months after my second visit. I was determined that I should see it this time around! Entry was about 8,50 euros since I forgot my student card, but as it was my only expense for the day, I did not mind the cost so much. It was beautiful and exciting to see something I had studied in school!

The Ara Pacis from the front. Note the person on the left for scale. 

A complex scene loaded with symbols pointing to fertility and well-being. 

At this point in the day it was getting rather warm, leading me to my fourth priority while in Rome: gelato! We went to Giolitti, a famous gelaterie with a lot of character and totally charming inside. Fair warning, if you go, it is really busy with tourists in the summer and you have to just push your way to the front -- do not wait in a line, you will never be served :) And with a delicious and refreshing gelato in hand, we just strolled around Rome passing by the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and other sites that did not really require a visit. I had another coffee before heading back to Termini for my airport-bound train. Luckily my train was not delayed, and I made it through security and to my gate in less than 40 minutes.

This would be a rather easy trip to do for anyone with a long layover in Rome. Remember to grab a free map from the information desk at the airport, then factor in an hour for getting off the plane and through passport control, an hour for the train, about six to seven hours for your visit, an hour to get back, and two hours for getting through the airport. If you have less time, you can always shorten your visit. I really took my time in the city. You could always factor in more sites too, but when you have a short amount of time, it is best to not put a million things into one day. I highly recommend having a coffee, enjoying some food, and getting some gelato. Take the city in. Walk slowly, wander; you will enjoy it more.

After my pleasant layover, I hopped another plane and arrived in Tbilisi early in the morning where I was greeted by Reed and some of his Georgian friends. My exploration of this new city and country has just begun and I will be sure to update my loyal readers on my adventures. In the meantime, you can read about Reed's experiences in Georgia from the past three years at Adventures in Georgia: The Search for the Persian Leopard.

Animals in America

Most of my travel time these days takes place in Europe. When I think of traveling, my default setting is packing for an excavation, museum research, and maybe a few days of sightseeing in France. I know what I need, what it will cost, and what I will encounter. It is sometimes a bit of a shock for me when I actually get to travel in my own homeland. The climates, the cultures, the landscapes, the food, vary so much considering we are all part of the same country. One of the most striking contrasts is in nature and wildlife.

Growing up in the U.S., I think we often take for granted how lucky we are to have old forests and diverse species of animals still running around. Our continent has only been inhabited by modern man for about 20,000 years whereas modern man has existed for at least 45,000 years in Europe. The cultures and societies that thrived in both areas differed significantly as well, i.e. the ever-expanding Western world consuming vast quantities of natural resources versus the smaller indigenous societies of the Americas using less and connecting with nature on a different level. The results of these relationships are evident today. We have tons of national parks in America, and within these parks, as well as in less populated areas in the country, we have many thriving animal populations.

As human populations grew, European societies learned domestication from the Mesopotamian world, but still supplemented their diets with wild game. Some of these species were hunted into extinction, or were killed off more recently because they were threats to farmers who raised domesticated animals for their livelihood. In all of my years of travel, the only wild animals I have seen roaming free across the European landscape are red deer (which I saw for the first time last year!), a fox, snakes, squirrels, and a variety of birds.

After my research in Europe this spring, I came back to Michigan to see my family for a few days, returned to Minneapolis for a week, then headed out west on a road trip with Reed to visit my friend Ami and her husband, both of whom are archaeologists. We traveled through South Dakota and stayed in the Black Hills for five days. Our journey continued west as we drove through Nebraska, into Wyoming, and arrived at Rocky Mountains National Park in Colorado. During this trip alone, I saw an incredible diversity of wildlife: pronghorn, white tail deer, mule deer, elk, moose, bighorn sheep, yellow-bellied marmots, prairie dogs, bison, snakes, turkeys, hawks, eagles, squirrels, chipmunks and a huge variety of smaller birds. On a trip to Yellowstone in 2007 I also saw bears, wolf tracks, and a large male moose walking in a stream about ten feet from us. Granted these animals were mostly in national parks, but the fact is you can see these creatures outside of parks as well, such as in northern Minnesota.

Here are a few highlights from my recent trip as well as a few from my trip in 2007.

Reed was either afraid of rattlesnakes, or he was disappointed we didn't see any... (Badlands, SD - 2013)

Deer in Ami's backyard (Custer, SD - 2007)

Prairie Dog! (Custer, SD - 2013)

Bison...I just want to cuddle with one! (Custer, SD - 2013)

Pronghorns -- saw lots of these on both trips. Their butts are white and easy to spot (Custer, SD - 2007)

Wild Asses are apparently a thing (Custer, SD - 2007)

Not-so-fearful Chipmunks on our hike to Harney Peak (Custer State Park, SD - 2013)

Bighorn Sheep owning the road (Custer State Park, SD - 2007)

Funny story, after walking out of the visitor's center I said to my friend Randan, "Wow, their  fake deer look quite real..." And his reply, "...Yeaaahhhh...because they are." (Garden of the Gods, CO - 2007)

Chicaree (Rocky Mountain National Park, CO - 2013)

Reed and I had a surprise visitor show up for breakfast (Rocky Mountain National Park, CO  - 2013)

I named our Elk, Missy.

She even smiled for the camera!

Brown Bear just noming away (Yellowstone, WY - 2007)

This moose came walking down the stream just after we crossed (Yellowstone, WY - 2007)

Seeing such animals in their natural settings is a humbling reminder that we are lucky to have them because they simply do not exist in other parts of the world, and that we must consider their well-being too, and not just our own. Hope you all enjoyed the photos and are inspired to get some nature today!

And be sure to stay tuned, I am heading out in two weeks for the Republic of Georgia for the first time! Yay for someplace new!

Going Home Is the Longest Trip You’ll Take

In most cases, the title of this post is only poetic. After a long journey one looks forward to, nay, craves the comfort and familiarity of home. Getting there can sometimes feel like you are crossing the world several times over. Everything takes longer. The night before your flight never seems to pass and sleep eludes you in your excitement and anticipation. Security checks at the airport seem as though they would be faster if they simply strip-searched everyone. Taxiing the plane to and from the runway goes at a snail’s pace. If you are fortunate enough to have someone greet you at the gate after passport control and customs, your journey may be over because the minute you get a hug from someone you love, you are home.

In other cases, the title of the post is literal. I have already experienced what I described above. I traveled from Dijon to Paris last week, spent a night, caught a plane, and landed in Detroit where my Mom and Greg greeted me. I spent a few days with them before hopping in a car again and traveling three or four hours over to Kalamazoo, Michigan for a conference where I was presenting a paper. The weekend passed nicely, but my longing for Minneapolis was distracting. I ventured back to eastern Michigan to spend Mother’s Day with my mom, the first in several years, and the day after.

This morning I boarded a train in Port Huron at 6:20 AM and set out for home. The first train, heading for Chicago, was to be 6.5 hours roughly. Due to freight traffic, we added another 45 minutes onto our journey. Luckily I had a long 2.5 hour layover scheduled, which did not affect my journey much. I met an old roommate for lunch and relaxed for a short time. My train leaving Chicago was so prompt with its departure I almost missed it! The prospect of spending another 8.5 hours on a train did not excite me, but it meant that with each passing hour I would be closer to home.

An hour out of Chicago, we received word that we needed to stop because the train in front of ours hit a car who tried to cross. Delay me all you want on my first train, but my second train, my key to Minneapolis, that is just frustrating. Ok, only half an hour delay, not terrible. Thirty minutes later we were told it would be another thirty minutes. Thirty minutes after that, we were told an hour. Then we were told we had to backtrack to the last station and pick up people whose train behind us dropped them off and they still need a ride home.

At this point, I have been waiting on the train longer than I have been progressing westward. I try to be flexible most days, and I keep telling myself that I have already waited three months to get home to Reed, Mea Kitty, my home; I can wait another three hours (plus 7.5). While I am calm about the situation, I am mighty damn frustrated. I am also wondering what I will do to keep myself occupied for another eight hours so that my trip home does not seem to take any longer than it already has; I definitely prefer the poetic version to the literal. 

My “Day” in Durham, England

As the weather in France today has taken a turn for the worse (I had several days of 70 degree weather and lots of sun, and now I am back to cold, rain, and clouds…), I thought it would be the perfect day to write about my trip to Durham, England. My last post discussed my trip to Edinburgh, but I neglected to say why I was there in the first place – I had to go there so I could get to my conference in Durham. The prices and routes for getting anywhere in Europe are still a mystery to me, and since I could easily rant about this for several blog posts, I will save my thoughts for such an occasion. The important thing to know is that Durham was my final destination for another academic conference.

This conference was a bit different than the one I attended in Luxembourg because the subject was “Material Religion” (the material side of religion, including objects used in rituals, representations of religious subjects, the body’s role in rituals, etc.), and my audience included sociologists, anthropologists, art historians, theologians, geographers…I am sure some other disciplines too! To my knowledge, I was the only archaeologist attending, but since I used many modern theories and approaches to understand my own material better, I actually felt quite at home here. I also was fortunate enough to present on the first day, and therefore, had little time to get nervous! I had positive feedback on my presentation, and one colleague told me later it was one of the most creative papers he’s ever seen and that I seemed right at home speaking in front of others (thank you, high school theatre and other various forms of public speaking I endured throughout my pre-college education)! Overall, it was an interesting conference, and I enjoyed listening to papers on different or new topics, and getting to know people from other disciplines.

Thanks S. Schaefer for the photo!

Backtracking a bit, I arrived in Durham Monday afternoon via the train from Edinburgh. The conference lasted from Tuesday to Thursday and went nearly from sun-up to sun-down. Needless to say, I did not have much time to see anything in the city during the conference. I anticipated this and planned Friday as my extra day for sightseeing. I did see one awesome sight during the conference – this room looked quite similar to the Great Hall from the Harry Potter movies! We dined in it and even made sure I was on the Gryffindor side, just to be safe! Apparently other scenes from the films were shot throughout the castle.

The weather was beautiful during the conference, but rained/misted on Friday of course. I spent the day just sort of strolling about; walking was particularly nice after sitting in a conference for three days. 

This is a view of the River Wear from one of the many bridges in Durham. The river actually loops around the highest hill in the area almost creating a peninsula.

It actually looked a bit more like Fall, but the green is slowly coming back. Below is another one of the bridges in Durham, though much lower than the one from the photo above. The pyramid-looking thing in front of it had a niche on the other side; maybe it was for light/a small fire? 

I did manage to visit the Durham Cathedral, which has been voted Britain’s favorite building. The giant, awesome door-knocker is on one of the doors to the Cathedral. If someone sought sanctuary for a crime or any reason, they could knock on this door and were allowed to stay in the protection of the church for about a month. It’s really large and it has interesting columns inside which are all carved with unique geometric designs (no photos inside, sorry!). In the monk’s living area, there was also an impressive library with books in beautiful bookcases that lined the wall and a lovely collection of Anglo-Saxon carved stone art and crosses. It is possible to visit the tower of the cathedral, but I thought paying 5£ to walk up five flights of stairs was a bit much considering the exchange rate.

I was a bit disappointed that the Durham Castle was closed for a private event the day I wanted to see the rest of it. At least I had enough sense to snoop around a bit the night of the HP dinner! I took a few photos near the entrance anyway.

But the best thing I saw in Durham, were signs of life! Flowers! Yes, flowers. I skipped most of this year’s crappy Midwest winter, but it does not stop me from being excited to see these gems! Spring is just around the corner, friends! I promise you! 

Another view of the cathedral. 

The other side of the River Wear which surrounds the hill.